Retold & Sophie Mckay

Clare: Firstly tell us a little bit about yourself, your background and where home is for you?

Sophie: I grew up in Brighton and I just always knew that I wanted to do something creative. I studied art and then went into fashion and textiles at University of Westminster. After graduating I designed for Burberry under the creative direction of Christopher Bailey and after working there for two years I moved to Milan and designed for Versace. It was insane. Like the sexiest dresses you could ever imagine, mesh and crystal fabrics etc it was really fun. Crazy, but fun.

Clare; Wow that must have been so amazing! What was working with Donatella like?

Sophie: She's actually so nice and really supportive of new talent…Her team call her La Mama.

Clare: You launched BAR in 2016, what was the starting point ?

Sophie: After Versace I was working freelance and had always wanted to set up my own business. (I’d been doing projects on the side like selling things on eBay since I was 16). Without knowing anything about jewellery I decided that I wanted to set up a business and learn how to make jewellery. So I just did it!

I’ve always been obsessed with vintage modernist jewellery, minimal Scandinavian designs - It's like sculpture. I saw a gap in the market for ethical, sustainable jewellery brands who were doing this minimal style so I thought why not blend the two together.

Clare; …and where did the motivation come from to make it sustainable?

Sophie: I wanted to make sure that whatever I was putting out into the world wasn't harming anyone and that’s quite a responsibility when you're starting a business. You have to set out with good intentions.

BAR works closely with the Om Noi Factory in Thailand who are a member of the Responsible Jewellery Council Recycled Metals

Clare: Do you think it's taken longer for the jewellery industry to be more sustainably aware / conscious?

Sophie: Definitely. When I first started going to Hatton Garden asking for recycled silver or enquiring where their plating solutions were from they used to look at me as if to say “why do you even care though?”…

I just wanted to know that I was doing the best it possibly could. So when I knew that I could buy recycled silver, I did.

Clare: What does the name BAR stand for?

Sophie: Originally I wanted to refer to a bar of metal. Because fundamentally it’s a very pure form which I liked. I then developed it to stand for Born from Ambition to create Responsibility.

Clare: What’s been your proudest moment for BAR so far?

Sophie: I'm probably the worst person at realising how far I've come. If I look back say seven years ago and imagine myself even thinking about selling in shops like Dover Street Market that's really cool. I think that's probably the proudest thing - selling Bar in lots of stores all over the world.

Clare: You design all the collections as well as managing the business and sustainability side with great success, any tips for flourishing jewellery brands / designers just starting out?

Sophie: Don’t be afraid to put yourself out there. You don't have to have much, just start with something. Follow your instinct and just being yourself.

Clare: Mixing the old with the new has been a big influence for the collection you have pulled together for Retold which we of course love. How does vintage play a part in creative process for BAR and do you have go to designers, artists for inspiration?

Sophie: The best thing for me about vintage is finding the unexpected. When you're rooting through a box and then you find that thing. I love that. The random bits of inspiration and never knowing what you're going to find. I also feel pieces from the past are just so much purer compared to pieces today which feel overthought sometimes.

My searches are always for 1950’s modernist Scandinavian and weirdly, Victorian as well. One of the most inspiring jewellery exhibitions I went to was a small jewellery museum close to the Salvador Dali museum in Spain and there was an exhibit there which was a ruby encrusted beating heart. It was so cool and really unusual.

Clare: Have you ever inherited anything that you have just had to keep and plan to pass down to your daughter?

Sophie: I have a little gold band that was my grandmothers. It’s absolutely teeny and sits on my ring finger. I also like the fact that rings don't really come off.

Clare: There are so many incredible pieces in our Retold & Bar jewellery collection do you have a favourite and why?        

Sophie: I love all of the vintage chains with the links but I think my favourite is the Link and Snake chain. I’m obsessed with snake chains, I just love the movement of them.

A selection of repurposed chains from the Retold & Bar Jewellery collection

Clare: Lastly what would you like BAR’s legacy will be?

Sophie: The most important thing for me is leaving no trace and understanding the impact your business has. I hate the thought of your actions having a negative effect on the planet. Also when I set up a jewellery brand, I never really thought about how sentimental it is. Today someone ordered a personalised script necklace and I suddenly thought how lovely it is that we can be a part of people’s special moments in that way.

Interview by Clare Lewis, with many thanks to Sophie.

Our very special collaboration with Bar Jewellery launches on Saturday 29th October.